Scraper plane?

If you work in hardwoods, some time or other you are going to wish you had a scraper plane to work that difficult grain structure right in the middle of your masterpiece. Unfortunately, they are horribly expensive for a plane you may only use once in a while and you perhaps can’t justify the cost. Especially, if like me you would prefer to use a hand scraper for the added control they give. Never the less, faced with a large area, scraper planes do have their place. Fortunately, there is a crafty way around the cost, by making your own scraper plane from a block plane, or from any low angle plane, the principle is the same. All you need to do is buy an extra blade for your existing low angle plane and regrind to a negative angle. If you don’t have a low angle plane of your own, you can pick-up a Stanley 220 block plane, for a few pounds on ebay; these make great scrapers.

Lay the plane on its side, take a rule and felt tip pen, now mark an angle on the plane side, in line with the leading edge of the blade. The angle should be about 97° leaning towards the front knob of the plane. Draw another line parallel with the plan iron as shown in the photo, set a sliding bevel to this angle and use as a guide for re-grinding. (if you don’t have a sliding bevel, you can simply glue or staple two pieces of card together at the correct angle) Now remove the blade and regrind to angle indicated by your sliding bevel; this will give a negative cutting angle to the blade. Take your time grinding the blade making sure to cool it, by dipping it in water every few seconds of grinding, you don’t want to loose the temper of the steel; this would make it useless. Hone in the usual way, if you really want to be accurate you can cut a block of wood at the same angle and use this to steady the blade while honing. Just lay the wood block on the stone and run the blade along it while honing. You don’t need to form a hook on the blade like a hand scraper; it will work fine as it is. I use a 220 just as described; I have a few block planes, so keep this one just for scraping. If you only have the one plane it’s a simple job just to change blades as needed. I’ll tell you one thing, a scraper plane like this is much easier to adjust than the real thing. Although you will need a little practice to get it just right, this will be time really well spent and you will be producing gossamer shavings from that impossible grain.

The biannual artisanal exhibition in Saint Amand-Montrond really proved to be a pleasant surprise. We were at first a little disappointed that the venue had been moved from the old Cistercian abbey, d’noirlac, because it has such a wonderful ambiance and practically unlimited space to display. However, the light and airy atmosphere of the custom built salle aurore at the cite de l’or complex proved a pleasant alternative and of course the facilities are so much more up to date. Besides this the organisation, accessibility was far better than at some of the much larger events, we have exhibited at and in addition it is virtually on our doorstep. So there was no long journey with a vanload of furniture, with the accompanying, often uncomfortable, hotel stay and meals out.

The real benefit of a local show like this is that many of the visitors are old clients and or friends and we get to meet many more prospective clients who live locally. Except for a very light shower just as we were packing-up to leave, the whole three days had perfect weather with not a cloud in the sky.

Louis XV Commodes

It’s always a pleasure to restore fine pieces of quality antique furniture, so it was a special treat to receive two almost identical commodes attributed to Louis N Malle. Cabinet maker, or the correct French term, ébéniste to Louis XVth. Both commodes were in the classic bombé shape that you can see from the photos and each heavily decorated with gilt ormolu. Both featured panels of lighter rosewood against a darker surround. However, the timber species of surround veneer differed, Kingwood was used for the larger commode, while a species of Ebony, ébéne verte, was used on the smaller more delicate commode. Both commodes had marble tops, one of these was clearly the original, while the other, I suspect was a 19th century replacement. Moving these marble tops aside one could clearly see the maker’s stamp and seal, leaving no doubt to the provenance.

While the main structures were relatively sound, damage to the veneer from shrinkage of the supporting timber was pronounced as was substantial wear to the drawer runners and drawer bottoms. Apart from these two major items conservation consisted of careful cleaning and finish repair, the results I hope speak for themselves.

Limited Editions

Recently a very dear client friend asked if I might make one of my needle workers boxes in walnut. Well actually she asked me about a year ago and I just recently got around to doing something about it. This was eventuated by three different things, the simultaneous arrival of a trunk of walnut, nicely cut into planks and a sheath of walnut burr veneers. Then a book about the Victory Project; A scheme where items have been made from timber taken from HMS Victory during its various repairs and refits. As one of the makers involved there is a short piece about me and the limited edition boxes I made; a few are still available. This sparked an idea and I decided to not only make the one needle workers box, but a series of five, in a limited edition complete with a certificate of provenance; just like the Victory boxes. The Walnut needle workers boxes will feature Cherry swing handles and dividers to the inner tray and burr walnut lids and tray bottoms. As I write, three of these are sold; this is even before I have made the first one. Hence no picture. Little did I realise that they would prove so popular, that’s the reason I settled for such a small edition. Naturally it would be dishonest to make a repeat edition, however I may make another using Walnut and pear or maybe Birdseye Maple.

What tools do I need? (part 6 Sharpening)

While on a recent visit to a friend of mine, who lives a little further south of here in the Creuse, he took me to see an archaeological site he has discovered. It was here on an escarpment that we discovered this very early sharpening stone; probably used to sharpen all manner of tools and weapons. No doubt even battle weapons used against invading Romans; there are some traces of later Roman settlement. Interesting to see how little some things have changed, although now-days most of us would like our sharpening stones a little more portable.

Last time I promised to look at diamond and ceramic stones, these are in my opinion, by far the best choice. Both will do a similar job, but there are a few differences. Generally speaking diamond stones are a perforated metal plate covered with diamond particles of different grades. Course, medium, fine and extra fine, there is also an extra course though difficult to find. This plate is bonded to a support or base, generally plastic and colour coded to the grit size. Ceramic stones are made from high alumina ceramic (synthetic sapphires) and then bonded into a ceramic base, which is then fired at temperatures in the region of 3000 degrees.

Ceramic stones have a continuous surface, so are especially suited to fine narrow blades. Diamond stones not of the best quality, can be found reasonably inexpensively, where as ceramic stones are about the same price as the best diamond stones. You will never find a one stone fits all, like the old monster above. Therefore, as it is our intention to get woodworking quickly and inexpensively, I would recommend at the very least a cheapish diamond combination stone; coarse/fine and a medium fine ceramic stone. (Med fine ceramic stone is equal to an extra fine diamond stone)

Diamond and Ceramic Stones